I’ve been going to Scotland every 2-3 years since the mid-1990s and every trip has been planned- at least in part- around football matches. At first my priority was national team matches (hence traveling in the early spring or late fall when qualification matches always seem to be held) and any other match I might be able to fit into my itinerary. Since becoming a Ross County supporter in 2002 I’ve tried to see one national team match and one County match if possible. On my last visit there was no national team match to be had so I set my trip up to see the Staggies at home in Dingwall on the first Saturday of my trip and away at Ayr United on the second Saturday.
Every thing went well at the home match with the exception of it raining the way it can only in Dingwall- so sideways that the lee side of your body stays dry- but I had high hopes for the following weekend in Ayr. How can I begin to describe Ayr to you? It’s as though you took the most historically important parts of Boston and Philadelphia and transported them to Lake George/Weirs Beach/the Jersey Shore. I distinctly remember one walk around the city where I walked past an arcade, then a medieval tower, then a water park. Let me give you the best example- and one that is completely true: perhaps you remember in Braveheart when a group of rebels were lured into a barn and burned alive? Well, the spot where that happened is now occupied by…a store selling discount cellphones. Anyway, having done my research I knew that Ayr United’s Somerset Park was within walking distance of my lodgings so I set off early to make the journey, visit the club shop, etc..
It was at the club shop- oddly not in the park, but in a low, ugly building in the middle of the car park- that I very guiltily bought the shorts pictured at the beginning of this post. I say guiltily because there was something dirty about indulging my lust for football gear by purchasing a piece of opposition kit white waiting to support my club…but I did it anyway. Obviously. So, what we are looking at here are 2007-2008 Ayr United away shorts. I have to say that while I think these are quite sharp looking, they may also be my favorite pair of shorts in which to play. They are just the right length, roomy without being baggy, and the weight and texture of the fabric is perfect as well. They are also the only Lotto item I have that are not part of my AC Siena collection. If you’re a regular reader of this series you may be wondering why as a person who collects primarily football shirts I decide to buy a pair of shorts? There are two reasons for that. First, they were on sale. Second, they pack small. This was important because I was able to hide them in the inside pocket of my jacket so that when I sat down with the County support nobody was able to see that I’d been to the opponent’s club shop and, seasoned traveler that I am, I did this two week plus trip with a backpack small enough not to need to be checked when I boarded the plane. Needless to say, that didn’t leave a great deal of extra room for souvenirs!
Before I close, a few words about Ayr United’s Somerset Park. It’s a pit. I say this with, I think, some authority. I’ve been to all manner of stadia in Scotland, from the biggest and brightest (Hampden Park), to the small and quaint (Highland League Clachnacuddin F.C.’s Grant Street Park), to everything in between (Easter Road, Tynecastle, Victoria Park, Broadwood, etc.) and I’ve never seen anything like Somerset Park. What’s wrong with it? First, it’s old. It was built in 1888 and between the uncertainty of the club’s league position (they’ve bounced between all three of the SFL divisions) and the fact that they’ve been actively trying to get out of Somerset Park for the last two decades, it appears that very little money has been put into upkeep. Second, it’s too big. The park will hold over 10,200 supporters, but Ayr United- currently second last in the SFL Second Division are averaging about 1,200/match- 12% of capacity! If it’s not entirely clear from the overhead shot I’ve linked to above, the four sides of the park are bordered by: a parking lot, a railroad yard, a small industrial estate, and a street of “working class” (I’m being very kind) homes. About 75% of the home support watches from the covered terrace at the Somerset Road end while the rest occupy the terrace at the opposite end. The away support, oddly, sits in the main stand near the parking lot. The opposite sideline is made up of a large terrace that generally remains empty. Even from the opposite side of the field I could see that the terrace was crumbling and the railings separating the levels were rusty. If you zoom in on this shot you can actually see that the entire terrace is in disrepair.
That’s it for this week. As always, I take requests!

Couple of random things:
1) What is the best way to get to Dingwall? It seems like that’s quite the trip.
2) I’m with you on the “one backpack, not checked” method of travel. I have an old REI Vagabond backpack that’s been to Europe 4 times in 7 different countries and not checked once.
1) Bus from Inverness- there are a bunch of competing small bus companies so it’s not too difficult or expensive. You can either go directly across the Black Isle (via the Kessock Bridge) and it takes about 25 minutes, but there are also slightly longer routes through Beauly and Muir of Ord which is very scenic, and if you’re a Scotch fan you get to smell the Glen Ord distillery as you drive by!
FYI: I generally get to Inverness by bus as well (Scottish CityLink).
2. I have to make a trip in the spring that’s going to require me to check a bag and I am absolutely DREADING it.
CityLink timetables give the time from Edinburgh to Inverness as around 5h 30 (but only about 4h10 from Glasgow). That still seems like a helluva ride on a bus. I took Bus Eireann from Dublin to Belfast once, and that was about 2:30. It wasn’t so bad. Here in the states I took Megabus from Des Moines to Chicago when we went to Mexico a few months ago. 6 hrs on that thing was enough.
And I may have to check a bag here in a few months if I have to go to Belfast and interview for my PhD and funding in person, instead of Skype, since I’ll need my suit. I’m dreading that. Bus/Drive to Chicago –> Fly to Heathrow –> Fly to Belfast. That trip is a bitch enough w/o checking luggage. I could probably get away with O’Hare-Dublin Int’l direct, then Iarnrod Eireann to Belfast, for the interview, but I know I need to fly to the UK direct when I go for school for good because of my visa requirements.
Anyway, long comment completely unrelated to the post (I’m digging the shorts by the way), but it’s nice to have someone who knows a bit about UK/Ireland travel to commiserate with.
I’ve only done the Glasgow-Inverness route and it is long, but honestly, the scenery along the way is breathtaking.* Plus, every time I’ve taken that route there’s been a 30-60 minute layover in Ft. William included in the travel time and I’ve used that to get some lunch (the bus station is right next to a major supermarket) and to do a little walking along the High Street.
*though the train trip scenery between the same points is even better!